Finishing 3D Printed Models
After printing is complete, there is usually some more work to be done. Supports will probably need to be removed. Holes may need to be reamed, some parts of the model may need to be reshaped. This work can be done with simple, inexpensive tools.
Basic Tools for Finishing Models
Nippers - A small pair of nippers—or wire cutters—is very useful for gently and carefully clipping away support materials or other extra pieces of filament. Sometimes these are included with a printer!
Needle-nose pliers - The narrow shape of needle-nose pliers makes it much easier to remove support filament from holes and cavities.
Small, sturdy knife, and/or small wood chisel - The author of this guide uses a small kiridashi that was handmade from a file. A kiridashi is a Japanese utility knife that is like a sturdy scalpel. The Google searches "kiridashi neck knife," or "neck knife" will bring up small, tough knives that can be used for scraping, prying and trimming extra filament from a model. Alternatively, a small, narrow wood chisel is a great tool for prying and scraping tasks. Additionally, a simple utility knife or a pocketknife can be used for trimming filament remnants from a model. Such light-duty knives will probably not be a good choice for prying or scraping.
Small file and fine sandpaper - Support materials can leave rough areas on a model that may need to be smoothed out and removed.
Optional tools for Finishing Models
Metric and SAE drill bits - A selection of drill bits is helpful in chasing out and reaming holes in printed models. Printed holes are not perfectly round, so this is a necessary step before assembling the model. The best tool for holding bits up to 1/4-inch (about 6mm) is a pin vise. Larger bits can be held in a set of vise grip pliers.
Heavy-duty pin vise - This tool holds drill bits—generally up to 1/4-inch (about 6mm) in diameter—for reaming out holes in a model.
Brace and bit - An "old school" drill is the best way to ream large holes in a model—or to deepen a hole without accidentally drilling too far. A hand-held electric drill has too much power, and it's extremely easy to lose control of it and destroy a model.
Tap wrench - Some models call for a screw to be threaded into the printed plastic. While it's possible to force a metal screw into the polymer, it's also possible to crack the model with the stress caused by crushing the plastic with the threads. A screw cannot effectively cut threads—the screw is not sharp, and any pieces of cut plastic would have nowhere to go. An inexpensive tap—turned with a tap wrench—can gently cut the threads without damaging a model that may have taken several hours to print. The threads are sharp, and a small amount of oil helps them to cut with little effort. The flutes in the tap give the pieces of plastic a place to collect. Taps are often sold with a matching drill bit of the correct size, so you use the drill bit to ream the hole, then very lightly oil the tap and use it to gently cut the threads.
